Comfort Suits

Men's Fashion

We will work on men’s fashion in a few parts, starting with suits, then in a following post we will deal with accessories and hats.

1910-1919

So even though we previously said that the 1920’s were perhaps the inspiration for the Tweed Ride, we are going to step back a decade, because let’s face it, even in today’s media and internet driven age, many people are a little out of date.

The basic suit would consist of a coat, a waistcoat (also known as a vest) and a pair of trousers.  Now it seems that sometimes all three would match, sometimes the coat and waistcoat paired with contrasting trousers, and sometimes you would match the coat and trousers and contrast the waistcoat. So the good news is this leaves you lots of options.

In this era the waistcoats were cut and buttoned lower and usually did not have a collar.

Trousers usually had a narrow, straight cut (not the baggy cut that would become popular towards the 1930’s) were ankle length, and often with the large cuff.  

Shirts were often a sign of class. Since this is a pre washing machine era, collars were often not permanently attached onto the shirt.  Working people often avoided solid white shirts to allow the wearer to hide dirt and grime and extend the use of shirt. Formal collars were often tall and stiff, but many pictures show soft rounded collars.

Of specific interest to our event, the Norfolk jacket was fashionable for outdoor activities like shooting or bike riding. Like non-white shirts, the sturdy tweed of the Norfolk jacket would hide dirt and wear well. This Jacket was often paired with knickerbocker/breeches and warm knee-length stockings. This combo would allow the pant leg to stay free of most mud and dirt, and out of the bicycle chain of a rider.

1920-1924

Early 1920's

For the most part men’s fashion was very similar to the previous years. The major changes being that the waist of jackets started to rise and belts started being more common than suspenders/braces. Pant remained narrow and straight, and there is often a visible space between the shoe and the upturned cuff.  The style can also be viewed in WWI uniforms.  You also see the buttons on jackets and waistcoats rising and collars become narrower.

1925-1929

Bernard-Hewitt & Co. Summer 1928 Apparel Sale Catalog

This is the era where trousers become baggy (sometimes referred to as "Oxford Bags").

 In the world of jackets, waists return to normal, lapels widen and peak, and the cut becomes looser.

Vests are often double breasted and worn with single breasted jackets. (Double breasted jackets becoming popular in the 30's)

In the category of outdoor dress you start seeing short trousers (earlier years see “Plus Two’s” and later seeing “Plus Four’s” referring to the length in inches below the knee) as well as sweaters. Though many traditionalist still were the Norfolk jacket and tweed breech combo.  (NOTE: Orvis and other sporting company’s still sell versions of this outfit)

The working class  (i.e. laborers) often wore the same clothing though they often look a little more tattered, but it was not uncommon for men to be photographed without their jackets. Many of these pictures show men with or without a tie, sleeves rolled up, and with either just a vest on or just sporting their braces. There is a great amount of individuality you can make with this look. This is also a great look for a warm day.

Open Ride

This ride is open to everyone with a bicycle!  

The Muppet

One Seat per Seat Rule

We want to encourage a warm and friendly ride… but not overly “warm and friendly”. So we would like to ask for a “One Seat per Seat Rule.”

Buster Keaton & Sybil Seely

We know this first picture seems pretty sweet and romantic, and very authentic to the time, but it probably is not the safest way to transport two people! Tandem bikes on the other hand ARE a great way to safely transport that special someone, and look great doing it!

 Glen Ford & Rita Hayworth in The Lady In Question

So remember, “One Seat per Seat!”

 Paul Newman & Katherine Ross in Butch Cassidy and The Sundance Kid

Safety first, and yes, this post was mostly an excuse to work these photos in…

Bloomers and Women's Fashion

It was suggested to me that I post something about women’s style, specifically with regards to Bloomers, Knickerbockers and Plus Two’s. First off, I am not expert in women or style, but I will do my best.

Second, I am trying to do this without stealing pictures from other Tweed Rides. So I strongly encourage you to look at pictures from these rides on your own and see the many beautiful styles that the ladies have come up with over the years.

We are talking about fashion from the early 20^th Century (some say the 1920’s are the ideal) but this still gives us a broad range. The question i will deal with here is ‘are pants on women expectable’?  I will give two historic examples:

Amelia Bloomer 1818 –1894 was an American Victorian Reformer who lent her name to “Bloomers”, now more associated with underwear, but traditionally meaning “woman’s pants”.  Part of her crazy anti-skirt agenda had to do with women and public athletics (including bicycles). The idea was to keep the feminine modesty but improve function.

Amelia Bloomer Water-Cure Journal Oct 1851

Even though Bloomers (later Knickers) may not have taken off right away, they were well established by the turn of the century.

Harpers, 1851

Our second pioneer (also and American) was Annie “Londonderry” Kopchovsky (1870–1947) who was the first woman to ride around the world on a bicycle. While Annie did make appearances in dresses, riding “women’s bikes” there is a classic picture of her wearing knickers and riding a “men’s bike” from around 1895.

Annie “Londonderry” Kopchovsky

Other pictures from around that time...

Ellimans Embrocation Ad 1897

Punch, 1895

Now that’s not saying that dresses are inappropriate! As you will see from a lot of vintage photos that are posted here, skirts and dressed seemed to be very common. I am just pointing out that pants are not inappropriate, and may be a good choice for people not used to riding a bike in skirts and dresses.

Here are a few cool ads from the 1920’s showing the pro-skirt movement.

What should you Ride?

The simplest answer is whatever bike you have, or can borrow, but please not one that you have stolen. The Alpena Tweed Ride (or any Tweed Ride we know of) is not a vintage or classic bicycle rally. It is a group of people getting together to have a fun, and relaxing ride. We ask that you attempt to dress up, but the style of bike is not important.

Buster Keaton riding a "Dandy-horse" in Our Hospitality

If you have a real or replica of a vintage bicycle, that would be great! A charming lady or dapper gentlemen on a classic steed would look awesome and really lend itself to the event, but it is not required.  The most important thing is for you to find something that you feel comfortable on, and will not mind riding a few miles.  If this means finding a new bike at a local shop, or at a garage sale (tis the season!) that is great. If this means bringing your well-worn road warrior or dusting off the one in the barn or garage, that is great too. We would just like to see you there!

Pennyfarthing

In fact, unless you really know what you are doing and feel very comfortable on one, we would suggest leaving the Pennyfarthing or Dandy-horse at home. Let’s have a safe and fun ride!

Why should you ride?

1.       It’s good for your heath! We have all read reports about how exercise is good for your heart and burns those calories that seem to gather around our middles. It gives you strong bones and muscles… wait, or is that milk? … well maybe they both do that. Riding your bike is also easier on your joints… unless you find a lot of pot holes I guess…

2.        It is a good way to get rid of stress! Biking helps calm your mind and works out all the tension from our busy modern lives! I realize this could go with #1 but this is your mental health we are talking about. We are talking "Be one with the Potholes" here.

3.       With gas prices constantly rising, biking is the economical choice! And no, you can’t count the price of a new bike, a new leather saddle, or sweet gadget as a cost! Look at #1 and #2, these are investments in your heath, not transportation costs! (I deny I am in denial!) Really you don’t need any of these new things, a bike is a bike, and your pedal power is a lot cheaper than gas… wait I am not saying your cheap! Let’s move on!

4.       Its Green! Using less gas and electricity is a good idea whether you believe in global warming or just sticking it to the oil companies. Either way, help the earth and cut into corporate gas/oil profits!

5.       If you do it in Tweed you will look very Dapper! Ok, you will look cool no matter how you dress, but remember I am trying to get you to ride along on the Alpena Tweed Ride!

6.       If you have any ideas about things I missed, feel free to leave a comment!

Albert Einstein

Any way you look at it, it’s the smart thing to do!