The Need for Tweed

Alpena has become part of a greater phenomenon....Tweed Rides are happening all over!

Here are a few cool links to peruse!

Traverse City:  http://tweedridetc.tumblr.com/

Detroit:  http://tweedridedetroit.com/

San Francisco:  http://sftweed.com/

Philadelphia:  http://tweedride.phlbikes.com/

Boston:  http://bostontweed.blogspot.com/

Kansas City:  http://kctweedindeed.wordpress.com/

Washington DC:  http://dandiesandquaintrelles.blogspot.com/

Victoria, BC:  http://tweedridevictoria.com/

http://ridingpretty.blogspot.com/2011/06/handsome-men-of-tweed.html

http://www.divinecaroline.com/22254/77329--tweed

Children’s Fashion

We have previously blogged on men's fashion and accessories as well as the female counterpart. But what about the kids? We are encouraging EVERYONE to dress in turn of the century style! Initially children wore smaller versions of adult clothing, but as the turn of the century neared, their clothing began to change.

Sailor Suit

Boys 1890 - 1930

  

 Small boys wore romper combination overalls and until they were around 5 years old. It was not unknown for boys of the same age to also wear little tunics that looked like dresses. There was an evolution of dress through a boy’s life: as a young boy he would wear a knickerbocker suit (or short trousers), then progressed to full suit (or long trousers). By the 1930s the change from short to long trousers was seen as a sign of manhood and was eagerly awaited by boys. One of the most popular looks (matching men of the era) was the Norfolk suit, with its high-buttoning jacket and integral belt. This was the standard daily wear for many well-dressed British boys as well as some American boys. Other suits for more affluent boys took their names from private schools like Rugby and Eton. The sailor suit was a popular choice until around 1920 when it was replaced with low waist tunics and shorts. Another popular look from 1916 to the 1940s was the 'Buster Brown suit' . This suit was a short smock-like suit, showing bloomer pants worn above the knee with long over the knee stockings. Most Buster Brown suits were worn with a broad white collar and large floppy bow sailor hat. These suits were worn by boys from about 5 to 8 years of age, but some mother’s dressed older boys in them for a few additional years.  The traditional combination (vest and long johns) were worn underneath most suit coats, but they were replaced by short sleeved vests and pants around 1926. Caps and jackets remained popular and knitted jerseys became so, especially after the Great War.

  

Norfolk Suit: These clearly upper-class boys are brothers and are being photographed in the family garden. The older boy, wearing a Norfolk suit with knee trousers, long black stockings, and a flat cap is about twelve or thirteen. His little brother (about five or six) wears a white tunic suit with a fancy lace collar, a straw hat, white socks, and strap shoes  

Pinafore

 Girls 1890 - 1930

Though earlier girl's undergarments were cumbersome, by the 1890’s separates (skirts and blouses) had become fashionable. Much like boy’s fashion, the sailor suits was also popular for girls as school or holiday wear from the 1890s until the 1920s.

Gymslip

Yet dresses were still popular, In 1908 the liberty bodices, in knitted cotton fabrics, began to replace the tortuous corsets.  Around 1910, the yoked dresses, with their high, modestly fitted waist and smock shape, came into vogue. The classic Pinafore was introduced in 1912, followed by the school gymslip in the 1920s. Following women’s fashions the waist dropped to hip level In 1919 and in by 1925 skirts and knickers rose to knee length. At the same time liberty bodices and vests were became sleeveless.  The 1930’s saw the rise of the 'Shirley Temple look' of longer skirts, frills and flounces.

Shirley Temple

Wheels of Change

Bikes have done more than provide fun transportation!

The 1890s was the peak of the first American bicycle craze and consumers were buying bicycles in large numbers. In 1897 alone, more than two million bicycles were sold in the United States, about one for every 30 inhabitants. What you may not know, however, is that the woman’s rights movement had some major growth with the bicycle! If fact, one-third of all those in the market for a bike were female. These women would prove to play an integral role in the struggle for women's rights.


Susan B. Anthony, who dedicated her life to the women’s suffrage movement, is noted for saying, “Let me tell you what I think of bicycling…I think it has done more to emancipate women than anything else in the world. I stand and rejoice every time I see a woman ride on a wheel. It gives women a feeling of freedom and self-reliance".

from http://www.annielondonderry.com 

For women, the initial struggle was for the right to ride a bicycle at all; this debate lasted until the early 1890s. From the beginning, there were a significant number of people who firmly believed that machinery and athletic activity should remain part of a man’s world and that a woman’s world should remain distinct and separate. Questions surrounding the issue of women on bicycles arose, such as: how women should ride, when they should ride, who they should ride with, what clothing they should ride in and whether they should race. Many critics were convinced that bicycle riding threatened women’s physical and mental health; their hair, complexions, femininity, families, morals and worst of all, their reputations!!

As cycling’s popularity exploded, a new breed of woman was making her mark in the 1890s. “The New Woman” was the term used to describe the modern woman who broke with convention by working outside the home, or eschewed the traditional role of wife and mother, or became politically active in the woman’s suffrage movement or other social issues. The New Woman saw herself as the equal of men and the bicycle helped her assert herself as such!!

Elizabeth Cady Stanton, a leader in the women’s movement wrote in an 1895 article for the American Wheelman, that “the bicycle will inspire women with more courage, self-respect, self-reliance….” It was a prophetic statement as women, who were leaving their homes (unchaperoned!) to socialize and cycle on country roads and in parks and becoming more involved in public life. Young women were gaining more freedoms and with that came confidence and a feeling of empowerment as the Victorian era drew to a close.

As women learned to ride bicycles they not only gained physical mobility that broadened their horizons beyond the neighborhoods in which they lived, they discovered a new-found sense of freedom of movement, that the cumbersome fashions of the Victorian era could not provide, as well as by Victorian sensibilities. The restrictive clothing of the era -- corsets, long, heavy, multi-layered skirts worn over petticoats or hoop, and long sleeved shirts with high collars -- inhibited freedom of movement. Such clothing inhibited even modest forms of exercise or exertion. Cycling required a more practical form of dress, and large billowing skirts and corsets started to give way to bloomers (see previous blog). Although bloomers first appeared decades earlier, and a major social battle was waged over their propriety, the cycling craze practically mandated changes in women’s attire for any woman who wanted to ride.

Why Ride?

Everyone looks cool on a bicycle!

  Elvis Presley in Germany (1959)

Old Magazine Articles

Cool website with pdf's of Old Magazine Articles (hence the name). Check out the fashion sections.

Women’s Accessories

1910-1919

This is the era of big hats, sometimes very plain, some with great masses of feathers and flowers. 

Towards the end of the decade hats slowly shrank and brims became firm. Because of the Orientalism movement, some women even wore turbans. Hair was also big, with the popular idea being pushed through the previous few decades by Charles Dana Gibson and his Gibson Girls. Even though “Bobbed Hair” is typically thought of as belonging to the next decade, it did make its appearance in this decade as can be viewed in the following 1912 Ziegfeld Follies poster.

Fur stoles and muffs were in vogue as were pearls and simple pendants in the Art Nouveau or Oriental style. Belts and sashes were large and often worn high at the beginning of the decade and slowly moved down to the natural waist by its end. The goal was to accent (or imply) a long, lank frame.

1920-1929

 Louise Brooks

The quintessential hat of the twenties was the cloche, popularized by actresses like Clara Bow (the “It Girl”) and Louise Brooks. While other hats were worn, most were of a close fitting variety or caps that accented the now popular Bobbed hair. Jewelry such as bracelets and brooches became flashier, pearls were still popular and necklaces seem to plunge down to the waistline while hemlines seemed to be retreating to the same point.  The last flapper essential was the little clasp purse.

Women’s Fashion

Well I honestly feel we shorted you ladies with the last style post, so this is an attempt to give a better overview. In Bloomers and Women's Fashion we made the argument for the right of women to wear PLO’s (Pant like Objects) in the sporting realm. Today is fashion trends in general.

1900-1919

1911

This is the era of Orientalism and the Art Nouveau (New Art) movement. It is important to remember that Orientalism did not only look to the Far East (Japan and China) but also into the Middle East (Egypt in particular). These movements idealized a long, thin, fluid, and almost cat like quality for the fashionable woman.  The archetypal look seems to be a long skirt (sometimes a long underskirt and a shorter over skirt) paired with a long tunic. Early in the era you see belted high waist lines that are reminiscent of an empire waist or maybe the Japanese Kimono.

This waist line dropped over the decade ending near the natural waistline. At the same time the hemline started to rise. The tunics seem to lengthen, everything seems to fill out a little and the waistline is less defined. 

World War I greatly changed the look of women’s fashion. Whether it was from cloth and money being diverted to the war effort or the fact that women were asked to take a more active life, but fashion started to stress function. Hemlines rose, suits were tailored, outfits simplified, and colors muted.

1920-1929

Oh, the roaring twenties!  While many women kept the practicality of the WWI suit, and sensible shoes, the classic image is that of the flapper. Though the true flapper was probably quite rare, there was defiantly a divide between mature women and that of the youth culture. Long gone were the days of the high waist that rode just below the breast, the new trend was to go for a flat chested boyish look.

Hemlines shorted even more and were often pleated to allow for a sportier lifestyle.  Blouses and dresses were cut very straight to ascent this “boyish” look. This is also the era were the sporty sweater/skirt outfit became popular at the tennis courts and other outdoor events. The only part that flowed was the hemline around the now visible knees!

Bring the Family!

I can’t promise you will hear The Sound of Music but it should be a fun event for the whole family!

Men’s Accessories

1910-1919

Neck decorations-

There are a few options in the area of neckwear. Neckties usually seem to be narrow and tied four-in-hand (The Windsor Knot did not come into play until the 1930's). They are also worn noticeably shorter than you would today. You could also wear an Ascot tie which would have been common for day dress. Bow ties were also common. Remember to also find a matching handkerchief to put in your coat pocket to have that final polished look.

Now the upper class was still wearing top hats for formal wear, but most men would have worn a bowler or a soft felt Homburg, Trilby, or a Pork Pie if you wanted a felt brimmed hat on a bicycle. Boater straw hats and Panama hats were great summer head wear. On the soft cap side there are many choices; the Newsboy/Gatsby style was very popular, as was my favorite the ivy cap. There are also the similar, yet to a hat aficionado very different ascot and pub hat... and don't forget cycling caps!

1920-1929

The same neck wear was worn, but ties slowly grew broader. This is also the era when the "modern" tri-fold tie, that we all know and love, was introduced.  

Hats were still common in all classes. In addition to homburg and trilby, this is the beginning of the fedora era. Regrettably the bowler was stylistically on its way out, but seems to still be pretty common in some circles. You still see the straw boater hat, especially in the summer and in the youth culture. Soft caps of the same style as discussed above were still being worn.

Watches-

This was also a time of transition in timepieces. The turn of the century saw the rise of quality, affordable pocket watches. Yet the War to End All Wars changed the style of watches as it changed so many things. Because soldiers in the trenches needed to keep both hands on their rifles, they were issued wrist watches. Now this was not a new concept, but the practicality of the design started to shine through after the military broke the tradition of the pocket watch. So in the post war era it was modern and trendy to sport a wrist watch. Saying that, the traditionalist kept the stately old pocket watch well into the 1950’s.

Comfort Suits

Men's Fashion

We will work on men’s fashion in a few parts, starting with suits, then in a following post we will deal with accessories and hats.

1910-1919

So even though we previously said that the 1920’s were perhaps the inspiration for the Tweed Ride, we are going to step back a decade, because let’s face it, even in today’s media and internet driven age, many people are a little out of date.

The basic suit would consist of a coat, a waistcoat (also known as a vest) and a pair of trousers.  Now it seems that sometimes all three would match, sometimes the coat and waistcoat paired with contrasting trousers, and sometimes you would match the coat and trousers and contrast the waistcoat. So the good news is this leaves you lots of options.

In this era the waistcoats were cut and buttoned lower and usually did not have a collar.

Trousers usually had a narrow, straight cut (not the baggy cut that would become popular towards the 1930’s) were ankle length, and often with the large cuff.  

Shirts were often a sign of class. Since this is a pre washing machine era, collars were often not permanently attached onto the shirt.  Working people often avoided solid white shirts to allow the wearer to hide dirt and grime and extend the use of shirt. Formal collars were often tall and stiff, but many pictures show soft rounded collars.

Of specific interest to our event, the Norfolk jacket was fashionable for outdoor activities like shooting or bike riding. Like non-white shirts, the sturdy tweed of the Norfolk jacket would hide dirt and wear well. This Jacket was often paired with knickerbocker/breeches and warm knee-length stockings. This combo would allow the pant leg to stay free of most mud and dirt, and out of the bicycle chain of a rider.

1920-1924

Early 1920's

For the most part men’s fashion was very similar to the previous years. The major changes being that the waist of jackets started to rise and belts started being more common than suspenders/braces. Pant remained narrow and straight, and there is often a visible space between the shoe and the upturned cuff.  The style can also be viewed in WWI uniforms.  You also see the buttons on jackets and waistcoats rising and collars become narrower.

1925-1929

Bernard-Hewitt & Co. Summer 1928 Apparel Sale Catalog

This is the era where trousers become baggy (sometimes referred to as "Oxford Bags").

 In the world of jackets, waists return to normal, lapels widen and peak, and the cut becomes looser.

Vests are often double breasted and worn with single breasted jackets. (Double breasted jackets becoming popular in the 30's)

In the category of outdoor dress you start seeing short trousers (earlier years see “Plus Two’s” and later seeing “Plus Four’s” referring to the length in inches below the knee) as well as sweaters. Though many traditionalist still were the Norfolk jacket and tweed breech combo.  (NOTE: Orvis and other sporting company’s still sell versions of this outfit)

The working class  (i.e. laborers) often wore the same clothing though they often look a little more tattered, but it was not uncommon for men to be photographed without their jackets. Many of these pictures show men with or without a tie, sleeves rolled up, and with either just a vest on or just sporting their braces. There is a great amount of individuality you can make with this look. This is also a great look for a warm day.

Open Ride

This ride is open to everyone with a bicycle!  

The Muppet

One Seat per Seat Rule

We want to encourage a warm and friendly ride… but not overly “warm and friendly”. So we would like to ask for a “One Seat per Seat Rule.”

Buster Keaton & Sybil Seely

We know this first picture seems pretty sweet and romantic, and very authentic to the time, but it probably is not the safest way to transport two people! Tandem bikes on the other hand ARE a great way to safely transport that special someone, and look great doing it!

 Glen Ford & Rita Hayworth in The Lady In Question

So remember, “One Seat per Seat!”

 Paul Newman & Katherine Ross in Butch Cassidy and The Sundance Kid

Safety first, and yes, this post was mostly an excuse to work these photos in…

Bloomers and Women's Fashion

It was suggested to me that I post something about women’s style, specifically with regards to Bloomers, Knickerbockers and Plus Two’s. First off, I am not expert in women or style, but I will do my best.

Second, I am trying to do this without stealing pictures from other Tweed Rides. So I strongly encourage you to look at pictures from these rides on your own and see the many beautiful styles that the ladies have come up with over the years.

We are talking about fashion from the early 20^th Century (some say the 1920’s are the ideal) but this still gives us a broad range. The question i will deal with here is ‘are pants on women expectable’?  I will give two historic examples:

Amelia Bloomer 1818 –1894 was an American Victorian Reformer who lent her name to “Bloomers”, now more associated with underwear, but traditionally meaning “woman’s pants”.  Part of her crazy anti-skirt agenda had to do with women and public athletics (including bicycles). The idea was to keep the feminine modesty but improve function.

Amelia Bloomer Water-Cure Journal Oct 1851

Even though Bloomers (later Knickers) may not have taken off right away, they were well established by the turn of the century.

Harpers, 1851

Our second pioneer (also and American) was Annie “Londonderry” Kopchovsky (1870–1947) who was the first woman to ride around the world on a bicycle. While Annie did make appearances in dresses, riding “women’s bikes” there is a classic picture of her wearing knickers and riding a “men’s bike” from around 1895.

Annie “Londonderry” Kopchovsky

Other pictures from around that time...

Ellimans Embrocation Ad 1897

Punch, 1895

Now that’s not saying that dresses are inappropriate! As you will see from a lot of vintage photos that are posted here, skirts and dressed seemed to be very common. I am just pointing out that pants are not inappropriate, and may be a good choice for people not used to riding a bike in skirts and dresses.

Here are a few cool ads from the 1920’s showing the pro-skirt movement.

What should you Ride?

The simplest answer is whatever bike you have, or can borrow, but please not one that you have stolen. The Alpena Tweed Ride (or any Tweed Ride we know of) is not a vintage or classic bicycle rally. It is a group of people getting together to have a fun, and relaxing ride. We ask that you attempt to dress up, but the style of bike is not important.

Buster Keaton riding a "Dandy-horse" in Our Hospitality

If you have a real or replica of a vintage bicycle, that would be great! A charming lady or dapper gentlemen on a classic steed would look awesome and really lend itself to the event, but it is not required.  The most important thing is for you to find something that you feel comfortable on, and will not mind riding a few miles.  If this means finding a new bike at a local shop, or at a garage sale (tis the season!) that is great. If this means bringing your well-worn road warrior or dusting off the one in the barn or garage, that is great too. We would just like to see you there!

Pennyfarthing

In fact, unless you really know what you are doing and feel very comfortable on one, we would suggest leaving the Pennyfarthing or Dandy-horse at home. Let’s have a safe and fun ride!

Why should you ride?

1.       It’s good for your heath! We have all read reports about how exercise is good for your heart and burns those calories that seem to gather around our middles. It gives you strong bones and muscles… wait, or is that milk? … well maybe they both do that. Riding your bike is also easier on your joints… unless you find a lot of pot holes I guess…

2.        It is a good way to get rid of stress! Biking helps calm your mind and works out all the tension from our busy modern lives! I realize this could go with #1 but this is your mental health we are talking about. We are talking "Be one with the Potholes" here.

3.       With gas prices constantly rising, biking is the economical choice! And no, you can’t count the price of a new bike, a new leather saddle, or sweet gadget as a cost! Look at #1 and #2, these are investments in your heath, not transportation costs! (I deny I am in denial!) Really you don’t need any of these new things, a bike is a bike, and your pedal power is a lot cheaper than gas… wait I am not saying your cheap! Let’s move on!

4.       Its Green! Using less gas and electricity is a good idea whether you believe in global warming or just sticking it to the oil companies. Either way, help the earth and cut into corporate gas/oil profits!

5.       If you do it in Tweed you will look very Dapper! Ok, you will look cool no matter how you dress, but remember I am trying to get you to ride along on the Alpena Tweed Ride!

6.       If you have any ideas about things I missed, feel free to leave a comment!

Albert Einstein

Any way you look at it, it’s the smart thing to do!